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exterior painting problems & solutions
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Alligatoring
Patterned cracking in the surface of the paint film resembling the regular scales of an alligator.
Possible Cause:
Application of an extremely hard, rigid coating, like an alkyd enamel, over a more flexible coating, like a latex primer,
Application of a top coat before the undercoat is dry,
Natural aging of alkyd paints as temperatures fluctuate. The constant expansion and contraction results in a loss of paint film elasticity.
Solution:
Old paint should be completely removed by scraping and sanding the surface; a heat gun can be used to speed work on large surfaces, but be sure to take care to avoid igniting paint or substrate. The surface should be primed with a high quality latex or alkyd PARA PRIMETECH primer, then painted with a top quality PARA ULTRA Exterior Acrylic Latex Paint.
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Blistering
Bubbles resulting from localized loss of adhesion and lifting of the paint film in the underlying surface.
Possible Cause:
Painting a warm surface in direct sunlight. Application of oil-based or alkyd paint over a damp or wet surface,
Moisture escaping through the exterior walls (less likely with latex paint than with alkyd paint),
there was inadequate surface preparation.
Solution:
If blisters go down to the substrate, try to remove the source of moisture. Repair loose caulking; consider installing an exhaust fan. Remove blisters. If blisters do not go all the way down to the substrate, remove them by scraping, then sanding; prime any bare wood and repaint with a PARA ULTRA top quality Exterior Paint.
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Chalking
Formation of fine powder on the surface of the paint film during weather, which can cause color fading. Although some degree of chalking is a normal, desirable way for a paint film to wear, excessive film erosion can result in heavy chalking.
Possible Cause:
Use of a low-grade, highly pigmented paint,
Use of an interior paint for an outdoor application.
Solution:
First, remove as much of the chalk residue as possible using a stiff bristle brush (or wire brush on masonry) and then rinse thoroughly with a garden hose; or use power washing equipment. Check for any remaining chalk by running a hand over the surface after it dries. If noticeable chalk is still present, apply a top quality PARA PRIMETECH alkyd or acrylic latex primer (or sealer for masonry), then repaint with a top quality PARA ULTRA Exterior Paint. If little or no chalk remains and the old paint is sound, no priming is necessary.
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Chalk Run Down
The washing down of chalk from an excessively eroding paint onto another area below (a brick foundation, for example), ruining its appearance.
Possible Cause:
Use of a lower quality, highly pigmented paint,
Use of interior paint for an outdoor application,
Erosion of factory-finished metal siding.
Solution:
Remove as much of the chalk residue as possible (see Chalking). Scrub any stained areas with a stiff brush, using a detergent solution, rinse thoroughly. In cases of severe staining, an acid wash may be necessary. Either way, if the affected area dries to a different color, consider painting it with a quality acrylic latex paint. Eroding aluminum siding should be thoroughly cleaned (power washing recommended) before painting with a top quality PARA ULTRA pure Acrylic Latex Paint.
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Cracking/Flaking
The splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat, which will lead to complete failure of the paint. Early on, the problem appears as hairline cracks; later, flaking of paint chips occurs.
Possible Cause:
Use of a lower quality paint that has inadequate adhesion and flexibility,
Over thinning the paint or spreading it too thin,
Poor surface preparation, especially when the paint is applied to bare wood without priming,
Painting under cool or windy conditions that make latex paint dry too fast.
Solution:
It may be possible to correct cracking that does not go down to the substrate by removing the loose or flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding to feather the edges, priming any bare spots and repainting. If the cracking goes down to the substrate, remove all of the paint by scraping, sanding and/or use of a heat gun; then prime and repaint with top quality PARA ULTRA pure Acrylic Latex Paint.
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Dirt Pickup
Accumulation of dirt, dust particles and/or other debris on the paint film; may resemble Mildew.
Possible Cause:
Use of a low quality paint, especially lower grades of satin or semi gloss finishes,
Soil splashing onto siding,
Air pollution, car exhaust and flying dust collecting on house body and horizontal trim.
Solution:
Wash off all surface dirt before priming and painting. If unsure whether the problem is dirt or mildew, conduct a simple spot-test (see Mildew). Clean off dirt with a scrub brush and detergent solution, followed by a thorough rinsing with a garden hose. Heavier dirt accumulation may require the use of a power washer. While dirt pickup can't be eliminated entirely, top quality exterior latex paints typically offer superior dirt pickup resistance and washability. Also, higher gloss paints are more resistant to dirt pickup than flat paints, which are more porous and can more easily entrap dirt.
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Efflorescence/Mottling
Crusty, white salt deposits, leached from mortar or masonry as water passes through it.
Possible Cause:
Failure to adequately prepare surface by removing all previous efflorescence,
Excess moisture escaping through the exterior masonry walls from the inside.
Solution:
If excess moisture is the cause, eliminate the source by repairing the roof, cleaning out gutters and downspouts, and sealing any cracks in the masonry with a high quality, water-based all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk. If moist air is originating inside the building, consider installing vents or exhaust fans, especially in kitchen, bathroom and laundry areas. Remove the efflorescence and all other loose material with a wire brush or power washer; then thoroughly rinse the surface. Apply a top quality PARA PRIMETECH Acrylic Latex or Alkyd masonry sealer and allow it to dry completely; then apply a coat of top quality PARA ULTRA Acrylic Latex Exterior House Paint.
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Fading/Poor Colour Retention
Premature and/or excessive lightening of the paint colour, which often occurs on surfaces with sunny southern exposure. Fading/poor colour retention can also be a result of chalking of the coating.
Possible Cause:
Use of an interior grade of paint for an outdoor application,
Use of a lower quality paint, leading to rapid degradation (chalking) of the paint film,
Use of a paint colour that is particularly vulnerable to UV radiation (most notably, certain bright reds, blues and yellows). Tinting a white paint not intended for tinting, or overtinting a light or medium paint base.
Solution:
When fading/poor colour retention is a result of chalking, it is necessary to remove as much of the chalk as possible (see chalking). In repainting, be sure to use top quality PARA ULTRA Exterior Paint. All PARA exterior colours are fade resistant.
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Frosting
A white, salt-like substance on the paint surface. Frosting can occur on any paint colour, but it is less noticeable on white paint or light tints. On masonry, it can be mistaken for efflorescence. Forms mostly in protected areas (such as under eaves and on open porch ceilings) that do not receive the cleansing action of rain, dew and other moisture.
Possible Cause:
Use of dark coloured paints that have been formulated with calcium carbonate extender,
Application of a dark-coloured paint over a paint or primer containing calcium carbonate extender.
Solution:
Frosting can be a stubborn problem. It often cannot be washed off readily. Moreover, the condition can recur even as a bleed-through when a new top coat is applied. In extreme cases, it can interfere with adhesion. The best remedy is to remove the frosting by wire-brushing masonry or sanding wood surfaces; rinse, then apply a PARA PRIMETECH Alkyd Primer before adding a coat of high quality PARA ULTRA Exterior Paint.
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Lapping
Appearance of a denser colour or higher gloss where wet and dry layers overlap during paint application.
Possible Cause:
Failure to maintain a ”wet edge” when applying paint.
Solution:
Maintain a wet edge when painting by applying paint toward the unpainted area and then back into the just-painted surface. This technique (brushing from ”wet to dry,” rather than vice versa) will help produce a smooth, uniform appearance. It is also wise to minimize the area being painted and plan for interruptions at a natural break, such as a window, door or corner (especially important when applying stain to bare wood). Alkyd paints generally have superior wet edge properties.
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Mildew
Black, grey or brown areas on the surface of paint or caulk. Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, and receive little or no direct sunlight (walls with a northerly exposure and the underside of eaves are particularly vulnerable).
Possible Cause:
Use of a lower quality paint, which may have an insufficient amount of mildewcide,
Failure to prime bare wood before painting,
Painting over a substrate or coating on which mildew has not been removed.
Solution:
Test for mildew by applying a few drops of household bleach to the discoloured area; if it disappears, it is probably mildew. Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing with a diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three parts water); wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Power washing is also an option. Rinse thoroughly, prime any bare wood, then apply one or two coats of a PARA ULTRA top quality Exterior Paint with mildewcide.
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Nailhead Rusting
Reddish-brown stains on the paint surface.
Possible Cause:
Non-galvanized iron nails have begun to rust, causing bleed-through to the top coat,
Non-galvanized iron nails have not been countersunk and filled over,
Galvanized nailheads have begun to rust after sanding or excessive weathering.
Solution:
When painting new exterior construction where non-galvanized nails have been used, it is advisable to first countersink the nailhead, then caulk them with a top quality, water-based all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk. Each nailhead area should be spot primed, then painted with a quality acrylic latex coating. When repainting exteriors where nailhead rusting has occurred, wash off rust stains, sand the nailheads, then follow the same surface preparation procedures for new construction.
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Paint Incompatibility
Loss of adhesion where many old coats of alkyd or oil-based paint receive a latex top coat.
Possible Cause:
Use of water-based latex paint over more than three or four coats of old alkyd or oil-based paint may cause the old paint to ”lift off” the substrate.
Solution:
Repaint using another coat of alkyd paint. Or completely remove the existing paint and prepare the surface - cleaning, sanding and spot-priming with a high quality PARA PRIMETECH primer where necessary, before repainting with a top quality PARA ULTRA Acrylic Latex Exterior Paint.
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Peeling
Loss of paint due to poor adhesion. Where there is a primer and top coat, or multiple coats of paint, peeling may involve some or all coats.
Possible Cause:
Seepage of moisture through un-caulked joints, worn caulk or leaks in roof or walls,
Excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls (more likely if paint is alkyd),
Inadequate surface preparation,
Use of lower quality paint,
Applying an alkyd paint over a wet surface,
Earlier blistering of paint (see Blistering).
Solution:
Try to identify and eliminate cause of moisture (See Efflorescence/Mottling). Prepare surface by removing all loose paint with scraper or wire brush, sand rough surfaces, and prime bare wood with a suitable PARA PRIMETECH primer. Repaint with a PARA ULTRA top quality Acrylic Latex Exterior Paint for best adhesion and water resistance.
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Surfactant Leaching
Concentration of water-soluble ingredients of latex paint, creating a blotchy, sometimes glossy, appearance, often with a tan or brownish cast. More likely with tinted paints than with white or factory coloured paints.
Possible Cause:
Painting in cool, humid conditions or just before they occur. The longer drying time allows the paints water-soluble ingredients, which would normally evaporate, to be leached out by rain or dew and rise to the surface before paint thoroughly dries,
Mist, dew or other moisture drying on the painted surface shortly after it has dried.
Solution:
Avoid painting in the late afternoon if cool, damp conditions are expected in the evening or overnight. If the problem occurs in the first day or so after the paint is applied, the water-soluble material can sometimes be rinsed off rather easily. Fortunately, even more stubborn cases will generally weather off in a month or so.
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Tannin Staining
Brownish or tan discoloration on the surface due to migration of tannin from the substrate through the paint. Typically occurs on ”staining woods” (e.g. redwood, cedar and mahogany) and knots in certain other wood species.
Possible Cause:
Failure to adequately prime and seal the surface before applying the paint,
Use of a primer that is not sufficiently stain-resistant,
Excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls, which can carry the stain to the paint surface.
Solution:
Correct any possible sources of excess moisture (see Efflorescence/Mottling). After thoroughly cleaning the surface, apply a PARA PRIMETECH high quality stain-resistant Alkyd or Acrylic Latex Primer. Alkyd stain-resistant primers are the best type to use on severely stained boards. In extreme cases, a second coat of primer can be applied after the first hasd dried thoroughly. Finish with PARA ULTRA top quality Acrylic Latex Paint.
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Vinyl Siding Warp
Warping or buckling of vinyl siding panels that have been repainted.
Possible Cause:
Most likely cause is that vinyl siding was repainted with a darker colour paint than the original colour. Dark paint tends to absorb the heat of the sun, transferring it to the substrate. When vinyl siding expands dramatically, it is not able to contract to its original dimensions.
Solution:
Paint vinyl siding in a shade no darker than the original. White, off-whites, pastels and other very light colours are good choices. PARA ULTRA top quality Acrylic Latex Paint is the best type of paint to use on vinyl siding, because the superior flexibility of the paint film enables it to withstand the stress of expansion and contraction cycles caused by outdoor temperature changes. Siding that has warped or buckled should be assessed by a siding or home repair contractor to determine the best remedy. The siding may have to be replaced.
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Poor Alkali Resistance
Colour loss and overall deterioration of paint film on fresh masonry.
Possible Cause:
Alkyd paint or vinyl acrylic latex paint was applied to new masonry that has not cured for a full year. Fresh masonry is likely to contain lime, which is very alkaline. Until the lime has a chance to react with carbon dioxide from the air, the alkalinity of the masonry remains so high that it can attack the integrity of the paint film.
Solution:
Allow masonry surfaces to cure for at least 30 days, and ideally for a full year, before painting. If this is not possible, the painter should apply a quality, alkali-resistant sealer or latex primer, followed by PARA ULTRA top quality 100% Acrylic Latex Exterior Paint. The acrylic binder in these paints resists alkali attack.
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Poor Galvanized Metal Adhesion
Paint that has lost it adhesion to a galvanized metal substrate.
Possible Cause:
Improper surface preparation, such as inadequate rust removal,
Failure to apply a primer before application of an alkyd or vinyl latex paint,
Failure to sand baked-on enamel finishes or glossy surfaces before painting.
Solution:
Any rust on the metal should be removed with a wire brush; followed then by, an acrylic latex corrosion-resistant primer should be applied (one coat is usually sufficient). Previously painted galvanized metal that is completely rust-free can be painted with PARA ULTRA top quality Acrylic Latex Paint without applying a primer. For new galvanized metal use PARA PRIMETECH AQUA PRIMEX (#750) OR GALVAPRIME (#52), before applying a PARA ULTRA Exterior Paint.
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Poor Gloss Retention
Deterioration of the paint film, resulting in excessive or rapid loss of lustre of the top coat.
Possible Cause:
Use of an interior paint outdoors,
Use of a lower quality paint,
Use of a gloss alkyd paint in areas of direct sunlight.
Solution:
Direct sunshine can degrade the binder and pigment of a paint, causing it to chalk and loose its gloss. While all types of paint will loose some degree of lustre over time, lower quality paints will generally lose gloss much earlier than better grades. The binder in top quality PARA Acrylic Latex Paints is especially resistant to UV radiation, while alkyd binders actually absorb the radiation, causing the binders to break down. Surface preparation for a coating showing poor gloss retention should be similar to that used in chalking surfaces (see chalking).
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Wax Bleed
Stains that come from waxy substances in the reconstituted wood products used to make hardboard siding. When the substrate is painted, these staining substances bleed through the paint; they can even bleed through some ordinary primers, possibly causing dirt pickup, mildew and/or poor paint adhesion (see dirt pickup and mildew).
Possible Cause:
Failure to apply a proper primer to hardboard before applying the top coat,
Allowing hardboard siding to weather before being painted.
Solution:
To treat or prevent, apply a PARA PRIMETECH top quality Exterior Acrylic Latex Primer, follow with a coat of high quality PARA ULTRA Exterior Acrylic Latex Paint. We recommend two coats for best results. Some hardboard grades have adequate factory primer and need only a topcoat applied. Low quality, highly pigmented flat paints are more prone to wax bleed than are higher quality paints.
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Wrinkling
A rough, crinkled paint surface occurring when paint forms a ”skin”.
Possible Cause:
Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using alkyd paints),
Painting a hot surface or in very hot weather,
Exposure of uncured paint to rain, dew, fog or high humidity levels,
Applying top coat of paint to insufficiently dried first coat,
Painting over contaminated surface (e.g., dirt or wax).
Solution:
Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. Repaint, applying an even coat of PARA ULTRA top quality Exterior Paint. Make sure the first coat or primer is dry before applying the top coat. Apply paints at the spread rate shown in the label directions (2 coats at the recommended spread rate are better than 1 thick coat). When painting during extremely hot, cool or damp weather, allow extra time for the paint to dry completely.
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Jokes about painting
What′s red and smells like blue paint?
Red paint.
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